Travel

Woodstock

Ducks waddled along the streets, passing boutiques and Georgian façades (Image: Amy Jones)

Sometimes it's the smaller towns tucked away amongst the rural and undulating landscapes of the UK that catch you off guard the most.

Perched on the eastern fringe of the Cotswolds is the historic market town of Woodstock in West Oxfordshire, distinguished by its graceful Georgian architecture, medieval street plan and deep royal connections. It's ideally positioned just 30 minutes from the city of Oxford, and well within reach of other charming Cotswold villages. But don't let its modest proportions put you off exploring this delightful town.

I was encouraged to make the journey to Woodstock after spending time at the stunning hotel and pub, Killingworth Castle, set in the village of Wootton, Oxfordshire. While locals told me that Woodstock was compact, they highlighted its independent boutiques, picture-perfect setting and palace that has thrust the town into the limelight.

Blenheim Palace

Blenheim Palace covers more than 2,000 acres of estate, and is open to the public (Image: Getty Images)

Those who have made the trip to Woodstock are frequently there for one purpose: to discover what has been dubbed 'Britain's greatest palace'. Yet it's not just the town's deep royal history that makes it worth a visit, as there's far more to uncover than meets the eye.

On the outskirts of Woodstock stands the spectacular Blenheim Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. First constructed between 1705 and 1722, covering more than 2,000 acres of grounds, it's among England's grandest houses and has, remarkably, kept its designation as a palace even though it no longer functions as a royal home.

Yet its historic connections run deep, as it was bestowed by Queen Anne upon the 1st Duke of Marlborough, John Churchill, and served as the Churchill family home for over 300 years. It was also where Sir Winston Churchill was born in 1874, and during his formative years, he reportedly spent his school breaks at the palace and returned as an adult, reports the Mirror.

Scenic view of the town hall in Woodtsock

The grade II-listed town hall takes centre stage in Woodstock (Image: Getty Images)

The former Prime Minister famously said: "At Blenheim, I took two very important decisions: to be born and to marry. I am happily content with the decisions I took on both those occasions." Today, it welcomes visitors from across the globe, with hundreds of tourists travelling to Woodstock to discover the palace and admire its stunning Baroque architecture.

But just a short distance from Blenheim Palace lies the town centre of Woodstock, which transported me to another era entirely. Honey-hued cottages draped with climbing wisteria and fitted with white shuttered windows lined the streets, alongside cobbled pathways and weathered signs on buildings that spoke to its storied past.

A main square flanked by Georgian frontages and the grade II-listed town hall provided a focal point, where locals savoured the tranquil surroundings and ducks wandered freely. I even witnessed a pair of ducks taking a refreshing drink from a water bowl thoughtfully positioned outside one of the shops, clearly very much at home in this charming town.

The Missing Bean in Woodstock

The Missing Bean was brimming with locals catching up in the sunshine over a coffee (Image: Amy Jones)

Throughout its charming layout, the streets boasted boutiques, including Loft and No.5 Park Street, galleries, pubs and restaurants, alongside fashionable coffee shops such as Woodstock Coffee Shop, Ciao and Missing Bean. I chose to stop for a coffee at the latter, and on a Sunday morning, it was heaving with locals meeting friends, families savouring a cuppa outside, and cyclists pausing for their caffeine boost.

Meanwhile, I came across the Blenheim Sandwich Company, which provided every conceivable sandwich filling and bread variety imaginable. And for those sunnier afternoons, there's the Alfonso Gelateria, offering 12 flavours of scrumptious ice cream and sorbet.

At every twist and turn, I appeared to discover another delightful little treasure tucked away in this picturesque town, and encountered scenic views that could easily match those in France. While it's compact, there's undoubtedly a robust sense of community in Woodstock, and it proved an ideal location for a leisurely wander.

Killingworth Castle

I extended my trip and stayed the night at Killingworth Castle, just a short drive from Woodstock (Image: Killingworth Castle)

For those wishing to prolong their visit, Killingworth Castle sits less than a 10-minute drive from Woodstock and is perfectly positioned as a base to discover more of the Cotswolds. I spent the night in one of their eight luxurious bedrooms, boasting exposed beams, a magnificent four-poster bed and a roll-top bath, located in their beautiful courtyard.

After a full day discovering the delights of the Cotswolds, the evening brought a sumptuous tasting menu featuring some truly exceptional dishes — from scallops and sea bass to tender lamb — rounded off with not one, but two indulgent desserts and delicate petit fours.

So it comes as little surprise that Killingworth Castle has earned a consistent place in the Michelin Guide and secured a coveted spot on the UK's Top 50 Gastropubs list, while also claiming its third AA Rosette. Lovingly run by husband-and-wife duo Jim and Claire Alexander, the hotel — affectionately known as 'The Killy' — feels every bit like a home away from home, offering the ultimate countryside escape.


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