All-inclusive hotels and resorts are gradually destroying one of the greatest joys of going on holiday.
After months of hard graft and the demands of parenthood, the prospect of lounging on a sunbed between visits to the all-inclusive buffet or bar is undeniably appealing.
Yet it is precisely this behaviour that is putting something we all cherish at risk. Food.
A recent poll of 2,000 holidaymakers revealed that cuisine is the primary reason for selecting a holiday destination for 19 per cent of travellers, with 25 per cent even returning to the same location on account of it. Nearly four in 10 always research restaurants and dining experiences, and 17 per cent will put together a wish list of foods they want to try.
However, according to responsible travel company Intrepid, local delicacies, bars and restaurants are under threat as holidaymakers increasingly opt for all-inclusive resorts operated by large multinational corporations, rather than venturing out and spreading their money around.
A survey of 2,000 Brits conducted on behalf of Intrepid by Censuswide found:
Award-winning author, food and travel writer, Yasmin Khan, who collaborated on the research, told the Mirror what we risk losing if we stick to the hotel buffet.
"When a traditional dish disappears, we don't just lose a recipe; we lose a piece of history and heritage," she said. Yamin contends that travellers carry a responsibility to champion the food cultures that give destinations their unique character, and that "when we choose the safety of the familiar over food rooted in local tradition, we can inadvertently contribute to the loss of irreplaceable flavours, techniques and ingredients.
"As someone who is a tired mum of a toddler, all-inclusives have their place. But I would push back on this idea that they're the most affordable way to experience a holiday. While some have good food, the majority of the time you're divorced from where you're visiting. It could be anywhere. You feel disconnected," she continued.
"So many of the local bakeries, or the lovely cake shops, the lovely tapas bars, if people aren't leaving the hotels, they're under threat. Some of my favourite meals abroad have been some of the spontaneous ones, you've eaten something you've not heard of before. I also make a point of asking for local recommendations."
Intrepid has additionally teamed up with Time Out to unveil a series of immersive cookery workshops across London, offering people the opportunity to prepare and savour a selection of these so-called 'endangered dishes' for themselves. Tickets are currently available.
Dan Saladino, author of Eating to Extinction, has raised concerns that lesser-known dishes are disappearing, partly due to the behaviour of holidaymakers. "The research identified three primary threats including environmental loss from climate change, cultural dilution due to overtourism, and the disappearance of traditional artisanal skills. We chose dishes like the New York bagel and sushi from Japan because they are, in culinary terms, global icons, yet most people don't realise the authentic versions of these are actually on the brink of vanishing due to modern shortcuts and mass-market pressures," he said.
"Food is the most profound link we have to our history, our land, and our identity, yet we are currently witnessing a global collapse of culinary diversity."
Noel Josephides, chairman of family-owned tour operator Sunvil, contends that all-inclusive hotels pose a threat not merely to culinary traditions, but to the very fabric of the sun-drenched destinations cherished by British holidaymakers.
He declines to collaborate with all-inclusives "on principle" and maintains that they drain resources from local communities while channelling profits towards large multinational corporations. Independent local business owners simply cannot match the purchasing power of major chains, which actively discourage guests from venturing beyond the resort to spend their money within the wider community.
This dynamic is not only a significant source of local resentment, but it also prevents holidaymakers from genuinely immersing themselves in their chosen destination, Mr Josephides contends. "It's a product that doesn't really encourage access to local facilities. We know in places like Cyprus and Greece, restaurants have shut down because of all‐inclusives," he told the Mirror.
"It is not the way to see a country like Greece, but it is perfect for mass‐market tourism from the company's perspective. In Corfu, there's a village called Dassia, which has a big all‐inclusive. If you go to that village, it's dead. Small hoteliers in Paphos have told me, hundreds of restaurants have closed. It is not the right way to do tourism."
Brian Carrigan has been visiting sunny spots including Menorca, Grand Canaria, and Marjoca annually for the last 25 years. In his view, the principal issue is the growth of all‐inclusive resorts.
"They starve the local economy of holiday spending. We have never done all‐inclusive due to the fact that the food is substandard and not as good as a locally prepared meal in a nice restaurant," Brian said.
During my visit to Rhodes in 2023 to observe the island's recovery from wildfires which had forced thousands of tourists to evacuate, several independent hoteliers and restaurant owners described how difficult the previous decade had been. While they mentioned various factors, the most significant in their view was the establishment of multiple large all‐inclusive hotels.
The origins of the all-inclusive holiday concept stretch back to the 1950s, when Belgian sportsman Gerard Blitz pioneered the concept by using army surplus tents to accommodate visitors in Majorca. He went on to found Club Med, now one of the most prominent travel brands across Europe.
Today's all-inclusive resorts are far more sophisticated and offer considerably more to guests than Mr Blitz's straw hut village, which first opened its doors in 1952 in Corfu. During a visit to Club Med Tignes, the ski-in, ski-out facility proved remarkable, as did the dedicated staff on hand to get children dressed and prepared for a day on the slopes, alongside an extraordinary buffet served three times daily. This is no ordinary chips-and-pizza affair — we're talking raclette, fresh fish, and omelettes prepared to order right before your eyes.
While Club Med may no longer represent a budget-friendly option, numerous brands offer such compelling deals that choosing anything other than all-inclusive would seem financially unwise — at least from a holidaymaker's standpoint.
According to Responsible Travel, all-inclusive resorts are "usually owned by an overseas company," and they "sequester most of the tourists' cash, leaving little behind in the local community, which is impacted by the presence of the resorts.
"Holidaymakers also use vast quantities of energy and water (significantly more per person than local people) and create large amounts of waste, which some feel is a high price to pay for little commercial return." Harold Goodwin, professor of Responsible Tourism at Manchester Metropolitan University, argues that all-inclusive resorts can be a positive force, provided they work in harmony with independent businesses rather than undermining them. This involves cultivating a skilled and loyal local workforce, cutting energy consumption and waste, procuring fresh local produce, and delivering an impressive selection of thoughtfully designed excursions.
"An impressive all-inclusive resort can provide employment for local people with a genuine chance of progression – with the right support and training – into managerial roles that are better paid. Indeed, an all-inclusive resort in a developing country could employ far more people locally than several ecolodges ever could," he told Responsible Travel.
"Notorious for not sourcing locally, there is no reason why a responsible, sustainable all‐inclusive resort cannot support an 'adopt a farmer' scheme, or similar – sourcing delicious, fresh, quality produce for its catering needs at a local level."
