Travel

Skyline view of Palermo on a sunny day

Forget the likes of Barcelona, Rome or Milan, this city break has all the charm and is so cheap (Image: Getty)

We are incredibly spoiled for choice in the UK when it comes to holiday destinations, with continental Europe right on our doorstep. That’s why people flock from the other side of the world to make a life here, for its access to the rest of the continent they’d otherwise never visit.

Every year, my mum and I jet off for a relaxing and explorative holiday, with me itching to go back to Italy and Mum wanting to tick off a new destination off her list. After little discussion, we settled on Sicily as our next port of call. A wonderful blend of history, expansive coastline and an endless list of regional delicacies we’d not yet tried.

Palermo Cathedral in Sicily, Italy

No one does cathedrals quite like the Sicilians (Image: Getty)

Just over half of our holiday was spent in the island’s second largest city, Catania, but the latter few days were spent roaming around the capital. Palermo. There was rest and relaxation, adventure and indulgence, just what the doctor ordered.

I love a good city break and Palermo offers everything you could ask for, as well as access to the rest of the island, especially if you want to escape the crowds. The Sicilian capital is one of those cities where you have no need for public transport as everything can be done on foot. However, be prepared to bob and weave between the buildings to shelter from the blaring sun.

If you appreciate a good church, atmospheric theatre and grand palazzos, Palermo isn’t short of them. Cattedrale di Palermo, Palazzo dei Normanni, Teatro Massimo di Palermo are classic hot spots, but the real city is found among the winding side streets and cobbled alleys.

Piazza dei Quattro Canti

Slip into one of the many cobbled side streets to find a trove of hidden Sicilian treasure (Image: Getty)

There’s no shortage of architectural gems, but you could argue that it’s just a front for some of the island’s more recent bloody history. We were informed beforehand to not mention the mafia in the city, but one of the most interesting parts of my trip was a visit to the No Mafia Memorial.

You see the activities and crimes of the mafia and gangs depicted in films and TV, but nothing quite prepares for the excessive amounts of photographs showing the reality. The crossover of the corrupt overlords and seedy underbelly was indisputable.

You’re left scratching your head and just how much bloodshed there was. However, this free museum offers an insight you won’t find on screens.

Of course, all of the architecture and history makes Palermo undoubtedly impressive, however, the main pull factor for us was the local cuisine. Endless plates and bowls of fresh seafood and homemade pasta is my culinary dream.

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Mercato Ballarò is the place to be for trying out authentic Sicilian street food (Image: Ellen Jenne)

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The Zuppe Di Mare at Osteria Villena is a must for foodies (Image: Ellen Jenne)

You can’t miss out on a trip to Mercato Ballarò, a tucked away alley lined with tables upon tables of meat, fish, veggies, cheese, fruits; you name it, Mercato Ballarò has it. The market is certainly not for the faint hearted.

It’s a feast for all of the senses, with a kaleidoscope of colour, smell and sounds. It can be incredibly overstimulating with vendors trying to flog their treats or lure you into their restaurant.

Instead, try a comforting bowl of Zuppe Di Mare at Osteria Villena on Via Maqueda, a seafood stew packed to the brim with calamari, prawns, mussels and cod all married together with a San Marzano sauce. It’s salty, warm, comforting and oh-so divine. I could’ve eaten several bowls.

For pasta fans who still want that seafood kick, a go-to must be the Tonnarelli Mare Mare. Yes, it may seem like it’s full of tourists, but Osteria Villena is clearly doing something right as every lunch and dinner sitting was rammed.

However, no trip to Sicily is complete without trying one of its most plentiful fish: swordfish.

Think of it like a white fish with a tuna steak texture when cooked, but a distinct flavour you won’t find from eating the likes of cod or haddock, for instance. Preferably served with caponata.

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For a crisp - and cheap - glass of Sicilian wine, visit Enotequa on Via Maqueda (Image: Ellen Jenne)

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Palermo is a haven for foodies (Image: Ellen Jenne)

If you’re a fan of people watching, my top spot was Enotequa, a dark and moody wine bar serving up crisp Sicilian wines of all colours, €7 (£5.99) Aperol spritzes and a meat and cheese board to wash it all down with for just €30 (approximately £25) for two people.

If spritzes aren’t your thing, you can find a bottle or pint of beer for between €4 to €5 (£3.42 to £4.28), according to Numbeo. London could never! And be sure to tuck into a cannolo, filled with fresh ricotta cream and top with all the nuts, chocolates and glace fruit you could want.

Palermo is a utopia for anyone who likes a break that’s not too far from home. It has the weather, the architecture, and the food to boot. We may have only been there for two days, but honestly, I could’ve and would have stayed longer.

I’m still dreaming about that seafood stew… and the spritzes, of course.


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