Australian surfing sensation Jack Robinson has opened up about a near-drowning experience during the Paris Olympics, held in Tahiti. The 26-year-old, who is among the world’s top surfers, had a stellar performance that saw him defeat world No 1 John Florence amid treacherous conditions in French Polynesia.

A storm system led to massive waves and resulted in the postponement of the women’s round three heat due to safety concerns. Robinson recounted his terrifying ordeal after several wipe-outs necessitated rescue by jet-ski.

“I got dragged over the bottom and almost had a two wave hold under,” he confessed. “I didn’t get much air. There wasn’t much time. I got reminded of so many guys who have had so many bad wipe-outs here.

“I have had some pretty bad (wipe-outs) but in a contest it’s different. You have way more adrenaline and there is way more on the line.”

He added that while he’s experienced severe wipe-outs before, competing adds an extra layer of intensity due to the adrenaline and high stakes involved.

Despite the scare, Robinson triumphed with a score of 13.94, outdoing Florence’s 9.07. However, he emphasised the inherent dangers of the ocean, likening the power of a wave to an avalanche.

“Every other sport is in a court or a stadium,” he pointed out. “We are in an ocean. It is the biggest, most powerful source of life we have on this planet.

“‘The waves are so powerful. It doesn’t relate to any other sport. Maybe an avalanche coming down on your head on a mountain. Maybe it’s similar to that. It’s so dangerous and so crazy.”

Robinson will face fellow Australian Ethan Ewing in the quarter-finals – with the latter suffering his own string of wipe-outs in the huge waves after defeating Connor O’Leary.

“I had some wipeouts but stoked it paid off,” Ewing said. “I have so much water in my head right now. It feels good to be back on the land now.”